Colette Anise and Burda Mash Up

Because making one pattern isn't challenging enough, I made two together. That's the way I roll my friends!

I am quite in love with this new jacket even though the amount of work that went into it was a little ridiculous!

 

Speaking of ridiculous, it was 34 degrees with insane humidity when I snapped these photos today. Crazy!! I even put on jeans and enclosed shoes to complete the look.

Then added a scarf for more wintery theming! Needless to say, this was a very brief photo shoot!

 

Back to the jacket. While I like the Colette Anise pattern, I really don't like peter pan collars on me. I do however, adore the collar from Burda 09/2009 # 127.

I've been dreaming about and planning this jacket since February last year. I then proceeded to make it, but found I was extremely unhappy with the fit and design of shoulders and the fabric had far too much brown in it, so it's still in my UFO pile waiting for attention.

While I was bummed about the Burda jacket not working the first time, I'm super chuffed with its style mixed with the structure and design of the Colette Anise.

I'm really pleased with the finish on this jacket and I attribute that to the fantastic instructions in both the Colette Anise pattern and the Anise Companion. I made a straight size 2 with no adjustments for fit, which was very surprising. Next time I may take a little width out of the back, but maybe not. As I hadn't purchased buttons before making my jacket, and because my fabric can fray and unravel, I chose to machine my buttons holes. I also omitted the welt pockets because I don't think I need them.

 

Naturally the main change to the Anise was drafting a new collar and jacket front similar to the Burda jacket. To do this, I used the back of the Anise collar pattern piece to the front notches, then drafted the shape of the ends from the Burda collar. The jacket fronts were re-drafted by laying the Burda pattern over top. Of course I muslined the pattern and tweaked the collar and jacket front further before cutting my wool. I also drafted to under collar to allow for turn of cloth.

 

I purchased this fabric back in August 2012 when I went to Melbourne for a wee catch up with the sewing folk there. I bought 1.8m for $30 from Rathdowne Remnants. It has a lovely weight and isn't too itchy on my skin, which normally doesn't mix well with most wool fabric. Rather than underlining the jacket with muslin, I interfaced all pattern pieces to add stability. The jacket is lined with a remnant of poly charmuese, which feels nice to wear. It would be nice to use silk next time, but this will suffice.

I'm am seriously happy with this jacket. I have attempted to make winter jackets before, but this by far is my best made, fitted and styled wool jacket ever! Now all I need is the temperature to drop a little :)

Cost:
Pattern: Colette Anise & Companion. Gift from friend = Free
Pattern: Burda 09/2009 # 127. Used before = Free
Fabric: 1.8 m wool on sale from Rathdown Remnants = $30
Lining: 1.5m charmuese remnant from stash, but say $10
Interfacing: $15
Shoulder pads: $3
Thread: from stash
Total: $58